"Man up" to Manicotti

Making manicotti is not difficult, but is an art when done properly. When I was growing up in New Jersey, my Uncle Sam Ferrante used to make homemade manicotti for our very large family. It was an event and a lot of work for him and his wife, my Aunt Flo, but I am so grateful they did it. I have such fond memories anticipating that first taste of the cheese-filled rolls of heaven. It wasn’t an overly filling dish. The cheese-filling and “gravy” that accompanied a feast of familiar dishes and specialties that spanned the course of the entire day and well into the evening. Course after course of Italian delicacies, meats, vegetables, pastas, fruit and nuts were served. And lots of wine and Sambuca was poured. We, kids, had soda, but only on Sundays or at the Holidays. I loved my Uncle Sam’s manicotti because it was different from all the other “pasta” dishes we would eat. While I was always an adventurous eater, this dish was my first introduction to the world of crepes. It started a life-long love affair.
When I make manicotti for my family, I feel like I’m sharing a part of my childhood with them. Sadly, my kids never met my Aunt Flo or my Uncle Sam because they died long before my kids were born. When my family and I eat this meal, we talk about what “the old days” were like, what our family did and who they were. It’s a way for my children to get to know their heritage, their ancestors and the parts of the family that past on too soon.
Everyone has someone in their family with a great sense of humor. When I was young, it was my Uncle Sam. What always amazed me was his ability to make everyone at the table laugh, young and old, in-law or outlaw. That is quite a gift. The table filled the length of the finished basement with the children corralled at the end, near the television. There was no separate “kids table”. The family sat together. I remember laughing at his comments when I was six and watching as my Dad and Mom belly laughing as well. Even during my difficult years around twelve, when I was embarrassed by, well, everyone and everything, this man had the talent to make me and my parents laugh…together. His comments were funny to young and old. And not to be out done my my Uncle, my Aunt Flo was such nurturing character, always warm and welcoming. I loved watching her laugh at her husband’s comments and thinking how God always pairs people, who should be together and complement each other. Watching my family interact, I learned how God puts the people in your life that you need. Aunt Flo loved introducing me to new foods and thus began my love affair with eating. She introduced me to iced coffee, rice crispy treats and octopus to name a few. She never underestimated my ability to appreciate good food, regardless of my age.
For the record, manicotti comes from the word “manica” which is Italian for “sleeve”. A manicotto is the Italian name for a “muff” which was used to keep women and/or girls hands warm. Manicotti is the name given to this cheese or meat filled crepe because it resembled a “manicotto”. Most pastas are named based on their resemblances or shapes. Cannelloni, which is often confused for manicotti, means “large reeds” and is a tube- shaped pasta (not a crepe) usually filled with meat or seafood filling. While this is not my Uncle Sam’s recipe, it is the one I’ve used for many years to help me learn, teach and remember. This dish is beautiful and elegant in its simple combination of ingredients. And very easy to prepare and assemble. I hope you release your inhibition, awaken the inner crepe lover and make this recipe below. It’s easy, it’s doable and more importantly, it’s delicious! (Swig:-) Mangia!

Cheese Manicotti

Crispelle (Manicotti crepes)
3 eggs
1 C water
1 C flour
1. Break eggs into a bowl and beat with a whisk. Stir in the water. Add the flour gradually, stirring with whisk. Add salt to taste, keep stirring. Let stand for 30 minutes.
2. Heat a 7 –8 inch nonstick skillet over moderate heat and brush the pan lightly with butter. Add about 3 Tblspns of batter and tilt the pan this way and that until the batter covers the bottom. (The shells should be quite thin but substantial enough to handle.) Cook about 30 seconds on one side, and then turn using a rubber spatula (or your hands). Cook the other side briefly (2-3 seconds). Slide shell out of pan.
3. Repeat this process for each shell, including buttering the pan.
4. Crepes can be made up to 2 days in advance and refrigerated. Stack them on foil or freezer paper and wrap well. Wax paper works well to interline each shell.

Ricotta Filling
2 C whole milk ricotta cheese (part-skim is fine)
1 C whole milk or fresh mozzarella cheese, shredded (part-skim is fine here, too.)
¼ C fresh parmesan, asiago or fontina cheese, shredded
1 T finely chopped, fresh parsley
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1. Combine ingredients in a bowl and mix until smooth (or very well mixed. Let sit.
This can be made 1 day in advance and refrigerated.

Gravy (AKA: Tomato Sauce)
2T olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped fine
2 large cloves of garlic, chopped fine
32 oz. crushed Tomatoes (canned in puree)
3 T fresh basil, chopped (1 ½ t dried basil)
1 ½ t dried oregano
½ t sugar
1 t salt
1. In a large saucepan, heat olive oil and add the sausage. Sauté briefly, about 2 minutes, then add the onion and garlic. Sauté for about 2 minutes more. Add the remaining ingredients. Bring to a fast boil, lower heat and simmer for 40 minutes. Stir frequently.
2. This can be made in advance also. If you are making it more than 2 days before you’ll use it, then store in freezer.

Assembling Manicotti (preheat oven to 350 degrees)
1. Place shell in front of you. Put a heaping tablespoon of filling in the middle of the shell. Roll it up and place it in a large, buttered baking dish. Continue until all the shells are filled.
2. Once shells are filled and in dish, cover with Tomato sauce and bake for about 20 to 25 minutes. Let sit for 5 minutes before serving.
3. You can split this dish up, make half now and store half in the freezer (I use 2 brownie pans). Just cover the manicotti with tomato sauce and freeze. Make sure it is wrapped very well.